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J. M. GRIEST. RUPFLING ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES. No. 280,926. V Patented July 10, 1883.

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(Model) J. M. GRIP-ST. RUFFLING ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES. No. 280,926. A Patented July 10,1883

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I UNITED" STATES ATENT .rricn.

JOHN M. GRIEST, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNORTO WALTER SOATES, OF SAME PLACE, AND THOMAS S. RIDGIVAY, OF SHAVVNEETOVN, ILL.

RUFFLlNG ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

SPECIFICATION forming as of Letters Patent No. 280,926, dated July 10, 1883.

Application filed Jauuaiy 22,1883. (Model) To all whom, it may concern: I

Be it known that I, JOHNM. GnIEs'r, a citizen of the United States, anda resident of Ohicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Ruffling or Gathering Attachments for Sewing-Machines, of which the following, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification. 1

In the drawings, the first ten figures are views of'the different parts of my attachment, shown, in detail or detached from each other, and rep-, resented as if viewed from above when ar-- ranged for combination. The next ten figures 1 are representations of the parts as viewed from the side when arranged for combination. Figure 21'is a top or plan View of the ruffler. Figs. 22 and 23 are side viewsthereof. Fig. 24 is a rear view of the same. Fig. 25 is a bottom view of the'front part of the ruffler. Fig. 26 is a section in the plane of the liner 0a,; and Fig. 27 is a section in the plane of the line y viewed in the direction indicated by the arrow there shown.

Like letters of reference indicate like parts. A is the main plate, frame, or stock. This plate is adapted for removable attachment to the presser-foot bar of the machine, and to serve a stock or body to which the operative parts of the attachment may be applied. Its principal novel features, of construction are the standard or vertical part a, with its elongated base c,in which is the horizontal slot a, and with its central part having in it the horizontal slot 1), and its upper part having thereon the laterally-extending teeth or cogs b, the transverse arm 0, with its stops 0 c, and the raised portion (1, with its lug d. I make the plate A of sheet metal, and in one and the same piece, shaping it by means of suit-able tools or mechanism. The arm c, I make by punching a piece out of the front end of the blank, but not entirely across it. I then bend down the part thus partly severed, so that the arm will occupy aplanesomewhat below the main part of the plate, as shown. By this means I am enabled to make the plate A from a much smaller blank than if the arm 0 were first made to project laterally, and then bent to pass underneath the body of the plate, and I find that the stock is worked up with greater economy and advain tage-by constructing the arm 0 in the manner described. The teeth or cogs Z) I) are struck up from the standard a by means of suitable 5 5 dies.

B J's-the presser-bottom. This part is also made in one and-the same piece, and its chief characteristics are its widened portion f in frontof that part, f, acted on by the machinefeed, as shown in Fig. 25, and the resistingplate f in front of the partf. Attention is also called to the fact that the part f is inclined or beveled in front, and is slightlylower at its rear portion than elsewhere, but not quite 6 5 so low as the part acted on by the machinefeed, and that the plate f lies in or nearly in the plane of the bottom or lowest part of the partf, thus forming a central space, f, in the presser-bottom. I corrugate the platef, as represented, to stiffen it; and as it is set dowiffrom the main part of the presser-bottom, a shoulder, f, is thereby produced.

The part f is of the usual width, or of the same width as the serrated feed-plate of the 7 5 machine. I attachthe part B to the back end of the plate A, and so locateit that the partf will be in a proper position with relation to the feed of the machine when the ruffler is attached for work, which attachment or connection is made in the usual manner. To facilitate the operation of connecting these parts of the ruffler to each other firmly, I set down small pins or studs 9 g by driving corresponding punches partly through the plate A, or so far through as to produce depending studs without separating the latter from the said plate. I also make corresponding holes in the part B, and then place these two parts together so that the studs will fill and project a little way through the holes. Ithen place these parts so arranged between upper and lower punches having pointed working ends arranged in a line with the upper and lower ends of the studs. I then compress the studs between the punches, by which means the ends of the studs, and particularly the lower ends, will be expanded, so that the studs will perform the functions of rivets and hold the parts firmly together; but I do not here intend to claim'this method of riveting these parts together, as I have in a pending application,

No. 82,632, filed with this application vi'z.,

-January 22, 1883shown, described, and

claimed the like methodof riveting two parts together.

G is the separator-p1ate,which is riveted, in the manner described, to the arm 0. The free end of this plate extends to or nearly to, but is somewhat lower than,'the part f, being lower the function hereinafter explained. The plate 1 D is arranged on the plate A, the arm D projects through the slot a, and the opposite edge of the slide is overlapped'by the lug d.

prevent this slide from accidentally slipping laterally out of its place, I turn up slightly the;

end of the tongue formed "by the notch h, so

' that that end will ride in contact with the face of the base a of the standard a.

E is the ruffiing or gathering blade. blade is riveted to the arm D in the manner already described, and proj ectsunderneath the resistingplatef, which holds it down to its work. It will be observed that the blade-E and plate 0 are much wider than usual, and as wide or broad as thepart f of the presser-bot tom.

'F is an edge-guide, which is arranged on the arm 0, and adapted to be adjusted thereonbe tween the stops 0 e, struck up therefrom. This gage consists of a central 'part, g, adapted to clasp the arm 0 firmly, but not so as to prevent the. gage from being adjusted thereon with facility, and of two side 'arms, the arm 9',

which is the rear arm, being higher than the other, and bent to form a shoulder.

G is a wheel having a central opening, j, an

upper set of cogs, k k, a lower set, k k, and a lateral V-notch, k. It'will be observed'that the sides of the notch is do not-incline to the same degree with relation to a radial line passing through the angle of the notch.

H isa rivet or stud passing through the slot 7) and through the opening j. I

I is the operating arm or lever, having in-it a horizontal slot, Z, through which the rivet or' stud H passes. A lug, m, is struck out from one side of the arm I, and a lug, m, from the other side. The lugm is adapted and arranged to project into the notch Zc, but is much narrower than the widest partof thesaid notch.

The function of the lug m is to rotate the wheel G in opposite directions, with more or less lost motion between the lug and the wheel, when the armI is vibrated. v Q

I is acircular serrated or-toothed segment on the arm I. The part I, however,;is not a segment of a true circle, but approximates the form of a half=ellipse.

J is the adjusting-plate. This plate is sheared around near its edge; but the ends of the slitv thus formed do not meet. This sheared or partlysevered part n is set out or bent slighta This distance, or have its-fullest stroke.

. ly near its junction with the remaining part of the plate, andis spring-like or yielding, being capable of having its free part pushed out lat erally, and ofreturning automatically to its original position when released.

J is a handleor finger-piece for facilitating the moving of the part at, and 0 is a stop or catch to prevent 'it'from being moved unnecessarily far, or far enough to injureits spring action. A lug or catch, 19, extends from the handle J into the serrations of the part I, but is drawn'therefrom by moving the part it laterally in the manner described. A semicircular or crescent-shaped slot, q,is made in the plate J, and the lug m enters this slot. The

stud or rivet 'H passes through the'plate J ecarmI, duringthismovement, is prevented from slidi-ng back and-forth on the stud H, for the reason-that the stud is riveted firmly to the plate-J, and because the lugm on the arm enters the-slot q-in the plate, and for the further reason that the plateis connected temporarily to the arm I, owing to the fact that the lug or catch onthe plate enters'the notches I on the arm. 'The wheel G, being rotated, andhaving its teeth oricogs k k in engagement with the fixed teeth or cogs'b b on the upright a, is caused to travel back and forth as it is rotated inreverse directions,th'is travel being permitted for-the reason that the stud H is movable in a horizontal direction in the slot Z). For these reasons, alsojthe arm I and plate J travel with thewheel G and stud H. As the teeth or cogsJc" 7; on the wheel enter or engage the teeth or cogs k k on theslide or plate D, that plateis reciprocated by the rotary movement of the; wheel G as well as by its travel. The movement of the plate D will be represented by the rotation and the travel of the wheel G, and hence is much greater than if moved by either the rotation or the travel alone, and greater and more easy than if actuated directly bythe arm I or by abell-crank. ,When the lug mis in contact with both sides or edges of the notchlcf, there will be no lost motionbetween the arm I andthe plate D, and consequently the blade E, which is carried by the plate'D, will be reciprocated its maximum This advantage of the increased stroke 'ofthe rufflingblade will follow ifthe arm I and wheel G be rigidlyconnectedto each other, in which case the plate J, lugs m and m, slot Z, notch k, and toothed segment I will not be essential; but as it is obviously of advantage to provide means for varying or regulating the stroke of the ruflling-blade, 'Ihave employed for that purpose the features of construction above referred to. as not absolutely essential.

To vary or regulate the stroke of the ruffling-blade, the operator pushes the handle J out laterally toward his right hand until the lug p is withdrawn from the toothed segment I. Then to lengthenthe stroke he pushes the handle from him and releases it. To shorten the stroke he draws the handle in the reverse direction and releases it. A variation in the stroke will follow, for the reason that the lug in, being in the slot 4, which is eccentric with relation to the stud H, to which the plate J is fastened, will move the arm I back or forth on the stud, and with relation to the wheel G, when the plate J is turned on the stud in the manner described. Consequently the lug m will stand a greater or less distance from the angle ,of the -notch k than before, and hence there will be more or less lost motion between the lug and the wheel G, and the stroke of the blade will thereby be diminished, but may be either diminished or increased in the manner described, as may be desired. a

It is of advantage to have the stroke of the ruffiingblade either increased or diminished ,both in its forward and backward movement simultaneously, but not to the same extent. By employing the V-notch k", having its sides or edges at different inclinations with relation to a radial line passing through its angle, the increase of the strokeback of the needle will be different from the increase in front of it.

In the example shown, this difference is intended to be about in the proportion of one back to three forward. By this means very small gathers may be laid just beyond the needle, and larger plaits may in like manner he laid'wholly beyond the needle, and whenthe machine-feed isadjusted in unison with the ruffler for thatpurpose, the plaits may be made up to the full capacity of the feed and ruffier without lapping; or when the stitch is longer than the width of the gather, there will the function of afixed rack. The slide D may be termed a traveling rack. The wheel G is a rotating and traveling cog engaging both the fixed and the traveling rack, and the arm I is a crank or lever for communicating motion from the machine to the wheel, and through the latter and the traveling rack to the gathraring-blade, resulting in the comparatively long stroke or travel of the blade, and hence greatly increasing the capacity of the ruffler for producing coarse work, or laying wide plaits, ruflies, or gathers, whichisone of the principal objects of my invention. The details of construction and arrangementwhich I employ for the purpose of making and .combining these principal parts with advantage, so as to attain the result desired, I regard as secondary or subordinate features of my invention. p

The next important group of parts or features of construction are those employed to vary the stroke of the ruffling-blade, thus extending the scope of the rufiler and adapting it to very fine as well as coarse work. It is obvious, however, from the foregoing description, that some of the details relating to these parts, though preferable, in my opinion, are not absolutely essential. The combination of means for varying the stroke of the ruffiing-blade with those for producing the long stroke is the principal object and feature of this part of my invention, and the details are of comparatively minor importance. I also deem certain features of construction relating to the pressenbottom to be of particular importance, as will hereinafter more fully appear when I'explain the operation of that part of the ruffler upon the goods.

The goods are to be arranged as follows: lVhen gaging is essential, set the edge gage or guide as may be required, according to the width of seam or heading desired. Pass the goods through the gage and over the separator-plate, or between it and the gathering blade. When the rnfflie is to. be stitched to a lower band, pass that band through the gage also and underneath the separator plate. \Vhen an upper band is to be applied, pass it through with the goods, but over tlie resisting-plate and rattling-blade and through the space f Set the adj ustingplate and the machinefeed according to the style of the gathers to be made, as before described. The wide portion f of the presser-bottom enables me to use blades of great width, and as the gather or crimp is formed between the separator and the wide portion of the presser, they will be crimped to the full width ofthose parts without the feeding of the cloth being retarded. By this means the elastic separator on one side of the cloth and the presser on the other serve as a tension on the goods to the right and left of the feed of the machine and back of the needle in front of the point of the feedingpressure, and so detain the material while the gather is being formed. This construction therefore serves a different purpose from that of a smoother for folding the crimps to an edge in advance of the needle, the feed and presser in the latter case holding the goods at rest while the gather is being formed, and as far. as

the feed extends laterally, but no farther.

Th at part of the presserbottom which serves as'a resisting-plate, or to hold the gathering blade or plate down to its work, is stiffened for that purpose by being corrugated, and, being separated from that part of the bottom immediatelyin front of the needle, forms the space orrecess f, before referred to, in which the HID gathers are formed, and through which the top band passes,- as'before stated, and the tendency to gather'the band, as when passing between the gathering blade and its presser, is thus avoided. The space f also enables the operator to see the gathers with facility while being formed, as is very desirable in making scalloped work, for example.

The adjustable edge-guide, when made and applied as shown and described, is of obvious advantage both as to construction and operation.

The mode described of riveting the parts together, as well as the manner of making the edge-guide arm, and'the general structure of the main plate, are of advantage mainly as features of construction.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is l. The combination, substantially as specified, in a ruffling or gathering attachment for sewing-machines,'of the ruffling-blade, a fixed rack, a movable rack, a rotary traveling wheel or cog engaging the said racks, an arm for actuating the said cog, and amain plate frame or stock, for the purposes set forth.

2. The combination, substantially as specified, in a ruffling or gathering attachment for sewing-machines, of a fixed standard having therein a slot, 1), and provided with cogs b b, a rotary cogged wheel supported on a stud entering the slot 6 and movable therein, a

cogged slide carrying the ruffling'blade, and a vibratory arm for actuating the said wheel, for

the purposes set forth.

3. The combination, substantially as specified,in a ruffling and gathering attachment for sewing-machines, of the ruffling-blade, a reciprocating plate for reciprocating the said blade, a vibratory actuating-arm adjustable longitudinally on its fulcrum, and a supple mental actuating part engaged by the said arm and engaging the said plate for the purpose of varying the throw of the said blade.

4. The combination, substantially as specified, in a rufiiing or gathering attachment for sewing-machines, of the ruffling-blade, a fixed rack, a movable rack, a rotary cogged wheel engaging the said racks, and mounted on a stud movable in its bearing or support, and a vibratory" arm engaging the said wheel and adjustable longitudinally on its fulcrum, for the purposes set forth.

5. The combination, substantially as specified, in a ruffling or gathering attachment for sewing-machines, of the ruffling-blade, a fixed rack having therein the slot 1), a movable rack, a rotary and traveling cogged wheel engaging the said racks, a movable stud entering the said wheel and passing through the slot 1), and a vibratory arm engaging the said wheel, and having therein the slot Z, adapting it to be fulcrumed adjustably on the said stud, for the purposes set forth.

6. The combination, substantially as specified, in a ruffling and gathering attachment for sewing-machines, of the ruffling-blade, a fixed rack, a cogged rotary and traveling wheel hav- I ing therein a V notch, and mounted on a movable stud or support, a movable rack for re cip'rocating the ruffling-blade, thesaid racks being engaged by the said wheel, and a longitudinally-adj ustable vibratory armv provided with a lug entering the said notch, .for the purposes set forth. 7 v

p 7. The combination, substantially as specified, in a ruffling and gathering attachment for sewing-machines, of the ruffling-blade, a fixed rack, a movable rack for reciprocating the ruffiing-blade, a rotary traveling cog-wheel en gaging the saidracks, and having therein the V-notch k, with its sides inclined at different angles to a radial line passing through the point of junction of the said sides, a movable stud for supporting the said wheel, and a'vibratory arm fulcrumed adjustably on the said stud, and provided with a lug entering the said notch, for the purposes set forth.

8. The combination, substantially as specified, in a ruffling and gathering attachment for sewing-machines, of the vibratory actuating: arm I, having therein the longitudinal slot Z, and provided with the lugs m and m, the ad j usting-plate J, having therein. the slot q, and carrying the spring-handle J, with its catch 19, .thestud orrivet H, passing freelythrough the slot 1, and riveted eccentrically to the plate J, and aserrated part, I, for locking the catch p temporarily, in connection with means for supporting the said rivet for actuating a reciprocating plate carrying the ruffling-blade, and forthe purposes set forth.

9. The combination, with a longitudinallyadjustable vibratory arm for actuating a ruffiing or gathering attachment for sewing-machines, 0f the pivoted adjusting-plate J, engaging the said arm, and provided with a laterally-yielding handle carrying a catch, 1), in connection with serrations for locking the said plate temporarily, substantially as specified.

10. The combination, with alongitudinallyadjustable vibrating actuating-arm of a ruffling or gathering attachment for sewing-machines, of the pivoted adjusting-plate J, engaging the said arm eccentrically, and having thereon the sheared part a, with its handle J and catch 1), and also'provided with the stop 0, in connection with serrations for temporarily locking the said catch, substantially as and for the purposes specified.

.11. In a gathering or ruffiing attachment for sewing-machines, the combination of apresserbottom having a part, f, inclined or beveled in front, the separator-plate G, and the part f, all arranged, substantially as shown and described, with relation to each other andthe ruffling-blade, for the purposes set forth.'

12. The combination, with themain plate, gathering-blade, and separator-blade of a ruf= fling or gathering attachment .for sewing-machines, of thepressenplate and the resistingplate f all made in one and the same piece,

a space, f, being between the presser-plate IIO and-the plate f", substantially as and for the purposes specified.

13. The combination of the resisting-plate f with the presser of a ruffling or gathering attachment for sewing-machines, the said plate having between it and the Vpresser the space f '"Zi substantially as and for the purposes sp ecifie 14. The combination, with the main plate of a ruffling or gathering attachment for sewingmachines, of the gage-arm c on theiront of the said plate, and bent substantially as described, for the purposes specified.

15. The combinationof the arm 0, provided with the stops 0 a, the edge-gage F, adjustably mounted on the said arm between the said stops, and the main plate and working parts of a ruffling and gathering attachment for sewing-machines.

16. The adjustable gage F, having a central clasping arm or part, and an arm on each side a" movable rack and a traveling wheel the tcethb I), struck up from the main plate and constituting a fixed rack, substantially as and for the purposes specified.

18. The combination, with a flexible or elas; tic adjusting arm or lever of a rufiling or gathering attachment for sewing-machines, of a stop or guard, o, for limiting the movement of- 3 5 the said arm.

J OHih M. G-BIEST.

Witnesses:

F. F. WARNER, V HENRY FRANKFURTER. 

